FITNESS FOR YOUR ALPINE OBJECTIVE.
Strength and endurance coaching for alpine climbing, mountaineering and rock climbing objectives.
Prepare for sustained mountain effort.
Develop an aerobic foundation and purposeful strength for approaches, long days and demanding terrain. Coaching considers your objective and available training environment. Fitness coaching is not a substitute for technical instruction or guiding.
Does this sound familiar? Rock climbing
Why am I strong in the gym but struggling on routes?
How can I develop finger strength without adding too much load?
Why do I get pumped halfway through a climb?
Should I focus on movement, strength, power or endurance?
How do I balance climbing with strength work?
What should change before a climbing trip?
Does this sound familiar? Alpine objectives
Am I prepared for a long approach followed by technical climbing?
Why do I feel tired before the climb begins?
How do I build endurance without crowding out climbing practice?
How should I introduce a pack and prepare for consecutive days?
Will I still have capacity for the descent?
What we’ll train
Rock climbing — Movement-focused practice, climbing endurance, pulling strength, shoulder stability and trunk control. Finger-specific loading is selected according to your experience and tolerance; maximal hangs and campus work are not automatic requirements.
Alpine mountaineering — Aerobic capacity for approaches, uphill endurance, strength under load and fatigue resistance for the whole day. A sport route and a long alpine objective need different programmes—not one generic climbing plan.
Your training week: rock climbing
Monday — Limit bouldering and appropriate finger-strength work
Tuesday — General strength and antagonist exercises
Wednesday — Route climbing: endurance and movement practice
Thursday — Rest and mobility
Friday — Appropriate power-endurance practice
Saturday — Outdoor climbing or a suitable volume session
Sunday — Rest or easy aerobic activity
Illustrative example for an experienced climber. Finger loading and session frequency must match the individual. New or persistent pain warrants appropriate clinical assessment.
Your training week: alpine mountaineering
Monday — Strength: legs, pulling and core
Tuesday — 75-minute easy aerobic session
Wednesday — Climbing movement and endurance
Thursday — Uphill intervals: 5 × 5 minutes, where appropriate
Friday — Recovery
Saturday — 4–6-hour mountain outing with suitable elevation
Sunday — Easy aerobic recovery or manageable climbing
Illustrative mid-program framework only. Your plan reflects your itinerary, skills, current fitness and recovery—not a readiness test.
Beyond the training plan
Discuss approaches, equipment, pack organisation, time management, food practice and useful route and weather resources. Technical instruction, rope systems and guided climbing are separate services. Fitness does not establish competence for technical terrain or protect against altitude illness.
Climbing questions, answered
Do all climbers need fingerboard training?
No. Movement, tactics or a better session structure may deserve attention first.
Is gym climbing enough for an alpine objective?
Not by itself. Approaches, load carrying, long-day endurance and separate mountain skills also matter.
Can I arrange technical instruction?
Explore VIBE Backcountry Education for appropriate instruction, arranged separately and within the instructor’s qualifications and terrain scope.
Mountain expertise. Individual preparation.
Jordan Lenham combines university-level sports education, professional mountain guiding experience and coaching since 2011 with first-hand experience of ultramarathons, alpine climbing and multi-day backcountry journeys. Your TrainingPeaks programme evolves through feedback and scheduled check-ins. Canadian owned and operated, supporting athletes across Canada and worldwide.